There’s something about Chef’s Table by Chef Stephan that differentiates it from most dining establishments in Singapore. You can easily feel it when you step inside the restaurant at 61 Tras Street; you will be greeted by the general manager and sommelier, Per Drew, like a friend he hasn’t seen in years.

If you take a look at the interiors, you won’t feel like you’re in a fine dining restaurant. Gone are the starched white linens, dozens of wine glasses and cutlery. What you have instead are bar-style high wooden tables and stools, so when you sit your feet dangle. It’s not uncomfortable though, it’s just a bit of a challenge (especially for shorter people) to take a seat. But don’t worry — Drew is there to assist.

The long and not-so-wide restaurant is lined with shelves that are decked with cookbooks by renowned chefs, wines available for purchase and potted fresh herbs. Illuminating them are the track lights that also give a soft glow to the cosy interiors. The main draw is at the end of the dining room — the open kitchen where you’ll see chefs Stephan Zoisl and Lorenz Raich in action.

^{Home cured and burned mackerel, pickled cucumber, lemon yoghurt, parsley oil, pickled apple, fermented black garlic, oyster leaves, dill}

When you’re ready to begin your meal, you can choose the four-, six- or eight-course menu. There are no fixed dishes here, only 28 ingredients that are updated every few weeks depending on the available produce. During the tasting, we had wagyu beef, fish and mushrooms, as well as exotic choices like the tete de veau, or beef brains, which we decided to skip. Once you’ve decided, the chefs will prepare your customised dinner.

We chose the six-course dinner, which started with cured and flamed mackerel. There’s no wait staff here so both chefs present the dishes to guests and use this time to talk a little about what they’ve prepared. Chef Raich tells us that we should start with the fresh oyster leaf which has a briny taste and works well with the cured mackerel. The dish is lifted with a touch of tanginess from the lemon yoghurt with dill oil sauce.

^{Sicilian red prawn pea in textures jamon}

The second dish builds the momentum for the three main courses. It’s a huge fresh and sweet Sicilian prawn that is balanced with a dollop of burrata cheese. The addition of artichoke chips gives the dish some texture, while the bed of rocket leaves (grown in-house) adds a fresh bite.

Mains began with Scottish crisp sea bass served with generous slices of jamon iberico. The fish is pan-seared just right that the skin remains oh-so-crispy, even when drenched with a rich lobster bisque sauce. The addition of cauliflower — served crème and fried — makes this dish more interesting. For a touch of sweetness, pea shoots are added into the mix.

^{Venison sirloin, red cabbage creme, chanterelle mushroom, crisp celeriac crepe, nasturtium leaves}

Next up, medium-roast pigeon with beetroot lentils, king oyster mushrooms, truffle and salad burnet; as well as a beef duo of wagyu sirloin and 48-hour beef cheek with chanterelle mushrooms, seasonal white asparagus and onion puree.

The menu ends with dessert, and the chefs showcase their creativity by presenting two choices: First is the light and not-too-sweet panna cotta that comes with milk ice cream. It may sound too rich, but the fresh cherries on top cut through all the cream and heaviness. There’s also a chocolate option — dark chocolate gateau with a bit of zing from a mandarin orange sorbet, and rounded out with a drizzle of salted caramel.

And what about the wine? Just like the food, there’s no fixed wine list. Drew takes charge of curating the wines that are served daily, depending on what the chefs have planned. He has over 100 labels sourced from Austria, Germany, France and Italy. Depending on what your taste preference is — whether it’s light, fruity, medium-bodied or strong — he definitely has something to complete your bespoke dining experience.

Chef’s Table by Chef Stephan | 61 Tras Street | Call 6224 4188 | E-mail chefstable@2015L.com