The 26th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, otherwise known as SIHH, was concluded last week in Geneva. Known as one of the most important watch fairs on the circuit, this fair saw the brands under the Richemont umbrella showcase their novelties for the year.

The fair, compared to previous years, was a rather muted affair. It was an indication of the ailing market, but proved to be a good sign for collectors—the collections presented were diverse and they offered value for every segment. Where there was one ground-breaking Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Supersonnerie, there was also an Offshore Diver’s Chronograph that represented the relatively lower end of the price scale. Similarly, Vacheron Constantin presented designs in both gold and steel versions, which made the Overseas collection accessible to a wider audience.

Another interesting trend was the focus on women. In fact, several watchmakers declared 2016 as the year of women and walked the talk with impressive launches. Jaeger-LeCoultre worked with Christian Louboutin on a range of leather straps while Roger Dubuis collaborated with Massaro on an exclusive piece. IWC, known for its “Engineered for Men” tagline, catered to women with a 36mm version of the Pilot’s collection—an ultra-wearable option for dainty wrists.

Here, we present some of this year’s highlights.

 

Audemars Piguet

Apart from the Royal Oak SuperSonnerie (the commercial version of the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 introduced last year), Audemars Piguet had another ace up its sleeve: The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked. It’s not the first time that the brand has launched an openworked, skeletonised Royal Oak, but this year’s launch reworks the mechanism and introduces two balance wheels into the movement, in order to improve its accuracy. Hats off, AP.

 

A. Lange & Söhne

Adding a dash of dark mystery to its Grand Lange 1 Moonphase, A. Lange & Söhne offers—for the first time—a luminous moon-phase display. The large date disk, the Roman numerals and hands have all been treated with a white luminous coating, and a partially transparent black sapphire glass further accentuates this illusion of mystique. There are 200 pieces of the platinum Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen”.

 

Baume & Mercier

The brand revisits its partnership with Carroll Shebly Inc, launching the Capeland Shelby Cobra, inspired by the race car that took part in the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1963. Various elements, including a dial layout that resembles the dashboard and hands recalling the Cobra steering wheel, are reminiscent of this legendary race car. 1,963 pieces will be available.

 

Cartier

What drives the modern man of today? Cartier seeks to answer that loaded question with its newest collection, Drive de Cartier, and succeeds by all counts. Aimed squarely at the refined, confident and contemporary man, the Drive de Cartier features a handsome cushion-shaped case that is wrought in either pink gold or steel. For 2016, the French maison has launched three iterations of the Drive: An automatic version, one with a second time zone, and the third with a flying tourbillon.

 

Greubel Forsey

Simplicity is the name of the game at Greubel Forsey, but the brand emphasises that it’s not a response to the slowing markets. In fact, the concept was six years in the making and part of the Naissance d’Une Montre project by the brand and Philippe Dufour. Essentially, Greubel Forsey facilitates one watchmaker to develop a watch in its entirety using the resources available at the manufacture. The result is the Signature 1, a watch with no complications created by Didier J.G Cretin. It is also the brand’s first watch in stainless steel.

 

IWC Schaffhausen

The International Watch Company returns to its aviation roots with an update on its bestselling Pilot’s Collection. Constructed initially as a tool watch for the German Navy during World War II, the Pilot’s watch has gained commercial success with its various iterations—including the Spitfire, Mark XVIII, Top Gun and Le Petit Prince editions. This year, the watchmaker has its sights set on the fairer gender, and has launched a 36mm version of the Pilot’s Watch Automatic.      

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Are you a Reverso One, Classic or, the cherry on the haute horlogerie cake, the Gyrotourbillon? That’s the question Jaeger-LeCoultre is asking its collectors this year. Celebrating the 85th anniversary of its emblematic Reverso, the watchmaker has categorised the collection in three distinctive lines: One, Classic and Tribute. While all three are equally dedicated to men and women, we love the art deco lines, slim Arabic numerals and elegant Dauphine hands of the Reverso One. For the sophisticated woman, turn to the Reverso One Cordonnet which comes with a distinctive cord strap.

 

Montblanc

Having escalated the highest echelons of the construction of writing instruments for the past 110 years, Montblanc fetes this milestone with its 4810 collection. It’s an impressive statement of the brand’s watchmaking ambitions, with a litany of strong timepieces that showcase its technical know-how and genteel aesthetics. We have a soft spot for the Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim 110 Years Edition Europe, North America and Asia. It brings back the technically astute ExoTourbillon, Montblanc’s haute horlogerie take on the tourbillon, in a slim and elegant case. Moreover, it panders to the brand’s spirit of travel with a hand-painted dial that depicts the continents.

 

Panerai

Collectors have come to expect a certain look from Panerai: Rugged, masculine and macho. But fresh and lively? For the first time, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio is adorned with a pure white canvas, and it comes equipped with the in-house P.4000 movement. An off-centred micro-rotor keeps the timepiece slim and trim.

 

Richard Mille

Always expect the unexpected at Richard Mille. Once again, the maverick watchmaker is down to shake the industry with an intriguing addition to its repertoire: A mechanical fountain pen. It shows off what the brand does best—audacious statements; and features a mechanically retractable nib that is powered by a vertical movement similar to horological mechanisms. The use of NTPT carbon gives the body of the fountain pen a hypnotic, undulating appearance.

 

Roger Dubuis

Ladies, pay attention. It’s your turn to bask in the limelight of Roger Dubuis’ attention this year—oh, and what a beautiful spot it is. The watchmaker declared 2016 as the year of the Velvet Diva with a range of timepieces that are evocative of the artistic and bold expressions of the house. A perfect example is the Velvet by Massaro, created in collaboration with the exquisite footwear designer that provides accessories for the likes of Chanel. The leather strap is inspired by the heel of a Massaro shoe, and complements the diamond-studded bezel and dial of the Velvet—topped, of course, with a movement bearing the Geneva Seal.

 

Parmigiani

It’s an important year for Parmigiani, as the independent brand commemorates its 20th anniversary. It does so with characteristic technical virtue, by launching its first in-house integrated chronograph, the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire. Despite its ubiquity, the chronograph is a deceptively complicated movement to manufacture—imagine the effects of stopping and starting on demand on a precarious mechanical movement. The rattrapante chronograph comes in white or rose gold.

 

Piaget

The rose remains the indisputable muse for the maison of Piaget and it has been interpreted over the years in various forms using rarefied metiers d’art. For 2016, Piaget has enlisted the skills of craftsman Dick Steenman, who specialises in engraving gold. The result is a resplendent Yves Piaget Rose sculpted in the precious metal.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels

No one blurs the lines between joaillerie and horlogerie as well as Van Cleef & Arpels does. The French dream maker introduces the Pompon transformable long necklace with detachable watch, harking back to the time when women’s watches were hidden from plain view because reading the time in public was considered a social faux pas. The watch is concealed within the base of the tassels, which can be detached and worn with the necklace or the bracelet.   

 

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin completes its mission of equipping all its collections with in-house movements with the Overseas collection. Appealing to sporty gents (and ladies), the collection defines casual elegance with its signature six-sided bezel that resembles the maison’s emblem—the Maltese cross. The chronograph best epitomises this elegant machismo and houses a new calibre featuring a column-wheel mechanism.